Friday, December 31, 2010

The End


We are home.
Sleep is ours again.
The memories are everywhere on the road but not as often back in our routines.
How much of a highlight is shoveling snow?
Big thanks for tuning in to our blog.

Enjoy this song.  It was played at loud volumes over dinner tonight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7mp9n8o1XM

Monday, December 27, 2010

Homeward bound

Today we caught the ferry back with our friends the Aussie-Spanish couple Cam and Rebecca who we celebrated Christmas with - they are travelling all the way to Argentina. It was a beautiful day, there were no bumps over dusty roads, no hassling over prices, so this fact was capitalized on as we, the passengers made sure to fully enjoy ourselves by ensuring proper hydration levels in the sun.  Now that we are nearing the end of our trip we are appreciating little things.  We look at trees and stuff and say obvious things like, Wow, those trees have leaves on them.  We are looking forward to certain things, like toilets that don´t clog, vegetables, selection, selection, selection, drinkable tap water, clean clothes on a daily basis, and so on, but also really enjoying the lack of snow and decent weather we have here.
Some statistics for your amusement.
Readers:
Canada
Nicaragua
US
Mexico
Belize
Guatemala
El Salvador
Australia
Costa Rica
Panama
Colombia
New Zealand
Taiwan
Qatar
Thailand
Singapore
Vietnam
UK
Italy
Switzerland
Barbados

The last (Pacific) sunset

It delivered.
















 I love this shot - in the wave out back the guy getting snaked has his fist raised cursing the snake, We feel your angst.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

The Return

We will be returning home soon.  In the next few days.  When you can get a flight for $217 from San Jose to Toronto you don't ask questions, you just book it.  When we checked again later, after booking, it no longer existed.
We will be enjoying our last sunset over the Pacific tonight and then heading inland towards San Jose.

Christmas Day

Christmas Day was a potluck on the beach with the crew from El Salvador, plus a few more members of the United Nations contingent.  It involved Secret Santa gift exchange, some interesting gifts, laughs, a tipsy afternoon surf, beautiful sunset and a campfire.  It was a great time.










Our serving, or rather "surfin" tables decked with food. ha!

 


Aussie Matt donned the zinc Santa beard while Logan and Shane assisted as elves.
  

How awesome is this? Santa hat and zinc beard.
 

Intellectual discussions. Drew, Cam and Rebecca.



The 2010 Christmas Crew.


Probably the best gift anyone got in 2010 anywhere in the world was The Sauna Suit.
The box shows a lady getting fit by lifting weights while wearing it,
but it is equally useful for practicing techno dance party moves such as the "air jam".


Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Sticks and stones

We have settled into Mal Pais pretty comfortably.  Routines involve a morning at the beach with all 3 boys letting off their steam - the biggest boy goes for a surf while the other two get involved with sticks, sand, rocks and old coconuts washed up on the shore.  The big exception to our comfort is our sleep.  We intended on finding a place to rent here for a few weeks or up to a month.  With the holiday season upon us however, there is nothing available.  This leaves us with the hotel option.  Still pretty good value at $50 a night for four beds, private bathroom, access to outdoor kitchen area, pool, wi-fi, etc. but the big snag is our sleep.  We broke up the trip with rentals along the way which were golden, but the sleeps all in the same room are pretty tough during nighttime wakeups.  Today we also found an extremely cheap flight to Toronto which we are trying to book at the moment - Canadian agents put us on hold for too long so we're waiting for the CRica agents to finish up with their siesta.  Poor sleep, cheap flight?  For this reason, we are likely heading back in the near future.  We'll still be here for Christmas, but I don't think anyone would pass up a two hundred dollar flight from San Jose.

Being at the beach today was like a nature walk pretty - there was a family of howler monkeys right over the trail and also several vultures sitting very close by.  Two spiky large iguanas crawled up a tree covered in thorns.  Ali said it was like being at a zoo or something and people pay big money to see this stuff at zoos, so we kept trying to get the boys interested in watching all the wildlife, but the boys were actualy more interested in their sticks.  Shane holding his, and Logan hitting the barbed wire fence with his.  Sticks are all the rage here in Mal Pais.  Of course, they always want the same one.






Sunday, December 19, 2010

EXTREME ROAD TRIP!!!

Get out the Mountain Dew, Doritos and Taco Bell - it´s time for EXTREME ROAD TRIP!

Craig and Shona from Toronto were staying at the same hotel as us in Samara.  They offered us a drive with them in their rental to the village of Mal Pais at the bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula.  This had all the elements of a college road trip like getting lost and empties in the backseat.  Shane even puked.  There were winding switchbacks inland through hills, viewpoints of the Pacific from the road cut into the mountain´s edge, bumpy dirt roads, getting lost and asking for directions from an Amish looking farmer who was barely coherent.  His beard was so long and nasty that he had a woman´s hair clip in it.  Like the inbred version of Captain Lou Albano. 
We had to make a few river crossings that were only possible at low tide and we had to drive on the beach for a while where there was no road.  Definitely a TOP 5 travel moment.

Arriving in Mal Pais was a surreal experience.
Ali and I had visited it 12 years ago and there were only two places to stay.  Both booked.  So we camped out on the beach.  Flash forward to today and it doesn´t even feel or look the same.  Frank´s place hotel now has a liquor store and grocery store built in front of it and there are "no camping" signs posted on the beach.  This is Hollywood surf central. There is a large Miami style outdoor shopping centre and the beach doesn´t even look the same. One thing the same is that the waves consistently break.  There was a decent swell the day we arrived with lines of corduroy on the Pacific.  Very nice.  Quite a challenge as well.  We settled into a decent hotel with pool, and working wi-fi FINALLY - the first time in a LONG time. We plan on sticking around here for a Christmas rendez-vous.  Most places are completely booked up for xmas here and places double the prices, so we are pretty happy to have that taken care of before the rush started.

 
Logan hanging out with members of the Forbes 100 list.
There is no church here - a sign that it is in fact not a "real" town and an example of how quickly everything was slapped together to accommodate for increasing tourism.  The beach scene is filled with surfers, organic farmers selling veggies on weekends, bongo drum sessions, fire jugglers at night, quite typical really.  The beauty of the abundant waves here is that they end up being generally uncrowded.

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Logan´s first day of School.

Well, the advantage of being in an expat village is some of the services.  We heard about a pre-school from an American couple who are living in Samara for a few months.  Their son Grant is roughly the same age as Logan.
He was having a bummed out day, but got so pumped when we told him that today he could be go to school. "I´ll walk there with my backpack like a big kid," he said.
We asked about the costs - 10 bucks for four hours - then what time to pick him up and then we left.
As we walked down the road we couldn´t believe that he was there, just like that.  No registration, no other info, we just dropped him off the moment we showed up.  There were a few other expat kids there, so we figured it was ok.  We went back to give our contact info, a snack, and to make sure he was doing allright.  It was entirely in Spanish afterall. 

He had a blast!

I think if we actually enjoyed Samara for more than two days we´d have him go in regularily.  But Samara isn´t one of those towns we liked.

Co$ta Rica

When the first Spaniards led by Sanchez el Dirte, landed on the coast of Central America, they were quickly approached by the local indigenous population. Sanchez exclaimed to the chief, "I declare this land to be Costa Rica!"
The chief looked confused and replied: "Why should you name this land? It does not belong to you or your people."
"¨Ha!" balked Sanchez, "this land belongs neither to you and your people, nor me and my people. It will belong to the multitudes of North Americans seeking escape from winters. 
They will come here to this beach that you call "Samara" in droves and set up everything exactly as they had it in their homelands. They will add cutsie touches to their beachside yoga enclaves, like exercise gyms made from wood. They will walk around with their shoulder length hair, necklaces and longboards- walking, but rarely surfing - and clutter the beaches jogging in spandex with their liquid gels in hip pouches and their thoroughbred dogs on leashes, playing frisbee or bocci ball in the water or on the beach and mingling with the other folks on their package vacations. They will escalate all the prices so that it will become the most expensive country in Central America. In fact, they will force many items to the ridiculous point of being MORE expensive than in their homeland.  This is why we must name it Costa Rica - since only the rich will be able to afford the costs."

The chief looked concerned, it was his homeland afterall. "Won´t anyone try to stop this?"

"It is unstoppable." Sanchez paused to think. "....though there are some who will try to resist.  Many years from now The Chosen Ones will board their bus to reach the coast in the dirty crossroads town of Nicoya.  They will attempt to reach the coastal town of Nosara. The driver will demand payment for three people.  The chosen ones will correct him. ¨No," they will point to their adult selves and say, "TWO people." 
The driver will remain steadfast and hold his hand out, he will point to a metal post and say that any child taller than it must pay; he will even go as far as attempting to convince them that there is a meter equipped with a "laser beam" that detects how many passengers board. 
This is the point at which the one called Drew will erupt into a George Costanza rant - he will think he is George, but in reality he will probably look more like Kramer (yes, I know what you´re thinking, we watched a lot of Seinfeld in Nicaragua) - he will declare at the front of the bus loudly that they have come through five countries and that children NEVER need to pay, he will utter his favourite Spanish words like "LOCO" and "MALO" while explaining that his child will be sitting on his lap so should not pay.  He will attempt to stand his child up next to the meter since his child is in fact shorter than it - but then a big mamacita will step on the bus and tell him he cannot pass.  In fact she will become involved in the debate, she will say that if he carried his child on he wouldn´t have needed to pay, but since the child walked on, he will need to pay.  Then she will block his way with her girth and by use of the "TALK TO THE HAND" gesture while turkey bobbing her head and saying, "You cannot pass." 
He will be helpless. 
A Talk To The Hand can beat rock, paper and scissors combined.
He will be forced to stick it to the man - "We´re out of of here!" he will exclaim.  He will collect his things, and outsmart everyone by walking to the back of the bus and taking his things out. Ali will say, "Who pays for the meter now?" and they will have a chuckle with one another.

People in the terminal will ask him what happened - the shopkeeper, the nice lady who was sitting next to him.  He will explain "It´s not about the money, it´s about THE PRINCIPLE!  He is JUST A CHILD!"  People will agree.
Then they will decide to try a different coastal town - since they are blessed with time they have the gift of indifference and don´t care where they go.  They will proceed to take a taxi for two times the cost the bus driver wanted and relish in the comfort of their 4X4 pickup truck, stopping to check out the monkeys.
When they reach the beachside town of Samara they too will find it to be exactly as I have described it to you. "

...and now you know the story of Co$ta Rica´s discovery.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Out of Nica

We got a ride to town from Harry, the super cool local guy who works for the house rental agency.  From their we got a cab all the way to the border.  Why not?  Because we can.  I still wonder how a one hour cab ride costs the same as ride home for me on a Saturday night - and I can walk home in 20 minutes, if not for the three feet of snow and blistering -24 degrees. 
The view out the cracked windshield was spectacular.  I can´t believe that the volcano is actually an ISLAND inside Lago Nicaragua.  Then, there are actually TWO volcanoes, as in twin peaks.  Ha!
While Nicaragua has been a highlight, the borders have easily taken the cake as the most disorganized and corrupt borders we´ve been to - ever.  In fact, we felt that things may possibly have regressed from 12 years ago when we first passed through this border.  Transport trucks are lined up for kilometres leading in and out of the border on both sides so there is only one functioning lane, which is used by vendors to peddle food to the truckies sleeping in hammocks under the shade of their rigs.  This working lane becomes a stand-off between people trying to get where they are going, like us for example, and the occasional fed-up truckie who decides to take it into the open lane.  The result is what is known by expats as : making easy things difficult.  Apparently it can take days for these trucks to get through this border.  Why?   This is the only border we have been through that is like this.  Why?   How is it that scheisters walk around selling you the immigration entry forms for two dollars right in front of the border police and no one does a thing about it?  Never mind the fact that I didn´t fall for the trap, they act pissed off by the fact that I didn´t fall for it.  So many questions.  At immigration, while fending off these dirtbags, we met up with a couple from Canada.  They were the same age as us, roughly, and had kids the same age as ours.  They live in Costa Rica.  Dan, invented the tool that removes the kingpin from skateboard trucks.  He has the patent on it.  Cool.  Yet random.  Once we all cleared out and were stamped into Costa Rica they offered us a ride in the back of their truck to Liberia.  We accepted. Ali and I sat on our backpacks and the boys started out safely on our laps, but soon were crawling everywhere and playing with all the new toys in the back.  We ended up at Mc Donald´s where all four of the kids were in heaven.  Normally I would say that I can´t remember the last time I ate at Mc Donald´s, but in fact I can, since we went to one in El Salvador in a town where every other food option was closed.
We are in Liberia for the night.  Going somewhere else tomorrow.

A real good time

Well we're leaving our house rental this a.m. And moving on. It wasn't just a trip highlight, but a life highlight. The only place we've visited with beaches that span to the horizon like this is Australia.
What set this this place apart is that we felt safe.
Guatemala has great mountain hikes, but you get robbed if you're on your own-like the Swedish traveller we met.
So yesterday we went in search of Playa Hermosa and took a wrong turn. The hike we did on a gravel road through the forest was perfect. Offshore gusts from lake Nicaragua keep the temperature ideal. We wandered through the valley, crossing through rivers and squeezing through barbed wire cattle fences. We could wander and it didn't matter.
Sunsets are perfect - without exception.
We are in the only house on the only cliff that is a 10 min walk from a few houses on a beach that is a long bumpy ride to the nearest town. This was the kind of place where you know you are doing exactly what you should be with your life.
I guess others have figured this out too. During our stay a bulldozer came to the hill above us to level the terrain for 28 more lots.
Beaches are perfect for kids. They can amuse themselves with rocks and sand, running and splashing.

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

More perfection

 We have extendeed our stay here for a few more days.  How couldn´t we?


A very brief entry that is mostly photos as I am in town only for groceries and business.


 The boys love it here.  There´s another 4 year old who lives downstairs - the son of the housekeeper and caretaker.  They have enjoyed playing with him (for the most part) in the mornings.  It is good they have to learn to share with someone else than each other.
We also found that there is a private beach just below the cliff our house is on.  Sweet.


Love the sunset views - every night, each one different, all nice.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Perfection

Wow!  The house we are renting is fantastic.  It sits perched on a rocky headland overlooking the Pacific between two fantastic beaches.  It belongs to a couple of guys who REALLY like their interior design.  It´s hard to believe we are in Nicaragua with the two doorbells we have - one for our maid, one for our caretaker.  Swankfest.
It is pretty remote - I just had to walk for an hour to even get to a village where I could get a taxi to head back in town for groceries.  They just filmed Survivor here.  The producers rented this house for two months in order to have them turn off the electricity so you couldn´t see it in the background during tribal council.  Ali found a little tiki statue on the tribal council site. If you zoom on the photo it´s where the cows are.  Ironically, there are a few peasants camped out on the beaches for real - and they don´t ever get those immunity awards.     

On the north side of us, there is a perfect crescent sandy beach that is about a ten minute walk.  There are a few nearby spots with decent surfable waves, but the swell hasn´t been great.  The boys have had fun playing in the sand and just running.  This beach is called Playa Remanso - it sees some day trippers, but is basically empty for most of the day.  We can´t get over how different the beaches in this country are compared to nearby countries.





The kitchen is made for cooking.  Name the utensil, gadget or device you need and they have it.  Basically everything in the house was imported from the U.S. - shipped here - think about the duty, plus cost of transport, etc. and it will get the hamster in your head back on that wheel.
Downside is that we also need to ¨import¨ all of our things from town.  We did a massive shopping trip before we moved in, but you know you always forget something.  How can one accurately anticipate one´s thirst and hunger?

The enclosed courtyard has a pool and gas bbq. Yes. Gas.  As in, chicken wings with hot sauce or steak.  Even shrimp if you feel like it.  Sunset out the kitchen windows.  Are you considering your retirement in Nicaragua? I hope so, because we will come and visit.  Oh yeah, and you can own title to land here even as a foreigner.  Safest country in North America (after Canada) if you believe the stats - I personally can´t see how that´s possible, but I guess if you´re competing with the U.S.
The cost of a chicken casado is 3 bucks and THAT is a statiscal fact I believe.
I prefer left breaking waves, but I will not be picky about rights that peel like this - especially when they are right outside my door.



 Logan has enjoyed some downtime during Shane´s naps with the Nickelodeon satellite feed.  Ali and I love the Fox 29 WUTV feed for the classic Seinfeld episodes we´re getting at night.  The Marine Biologist episode. So good.

Coming this Winter....

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Chely´s house

One day we met a guy named Chely who manages a property up on the hill that overlooks Playa Maderas.  He had an empty room in his place that he invited us to stay in.  He rented to us for a couple of nights so we packed our things into the back of a truck and headed up.  Toki and Matt came too.  We grabbed a tonne of food for a big cook up on the bbq grill.  Once again EVERYTHING NICE!!  Logan absolutely loved sitting in the back of the pickup.

Being the day of the hot sauce competition being hosted in Toronto, we decided to cook up our own Central American sauce to go with the chicken being grilled on the bbq for dinner.
Sauce title:  Mexican Pipeline.
Ali and I toasted the celebrants in Canada - we were going to call, but there was no phone or internet service from where we were.
By the way, all ingredients used were local Nicaraguan.  I may have strong contendor for next year´s competition.


While we feasted outside we were treated to another spectacular sunset over the hills and surf break down below.  We watched the ant-sized surfers catch the last rides of the day.  To the south, the mountains of Costa Rica jut out into the Pacific.






Perhaps the only catch to staying here was the fact that it is at the top of a VERY big hill, so going back and forth to the beach is quite the sweaty task.

 The group we met in El Salvador all showed up on the beach the next day.  The waves were small but still peeling so I traded up my rental for a longboard and took Logan out for a try.  He didn´t really enjoy the saltwater splashing into his eyes, but he and Shane really enjoyed running around kicking a soccer ball on the beach with the crew of travellers we met up with. 
  The whole crew split the cost of a truck back up the hill to Chely´s place to enjoy the sunset from the pool and on the patio.  Another feast was cooked up - this time seafood.  Seriously tasty garlic butter ginger sauce that you could just drink.   We all chatted, laughed, while listening to music and looking at the Milky Way.




We are back in the town of San Juan at the moment and heading very soon to a house rental we organized.  We are hoping it is everything we expect it to be.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Paradise

Just to the north and to the south of San Juan are three perfect crescent shaped beaches that are literally some of the most beautiful unspolied places we´ve ever visited.  Because of the proximity to Lago de Nicaragua, there are nearly constant offshore breezes which ease the tropical mugginess and make things quite refreshing.  It also creates hollow fast waves that barrel.  We split a cab with Matt and were on our way north to Playa Maderas, the site of the recent Central American surf competition.
The boys became quickly amused playing in and around the waist deep tidal pools and Matt and I headed out to the water and had the waves pretty well to ourselves.  The landscape is almost prehistoric looking here - like the scene at the end of Planet of the Apes when Charlton Heston realizes it was Earth all along.  In the distance we could see the mountains of Santa Rosa National Park in Costa Rica - an untouched wilderness area accessible only by 4 X 4 or boat. 
It was so good, that we didn´t really even take many pictures - so the few we did take, don´t do it justice.  Fear not, we´re going  back, and next time for a while.  

By the afternoon, truckloads of backpackers arrived with the learn to surf schools and the wave became pretty crowded, but we still had lots of fun as it is challenge to ride this spot as you need to get up immediately or get slammed.     
 
 Matt is great with our kids.  Since we started doing the hostel thing in Guatemala, there is usually one or two people at our hostel who take to our kids and keep them happy.  Logan loves cruising around checking out what people are doing asking questions, or telling stories that involve getting on a chicken bus and going to a market, for example. 


After heading back into town, we bumped in Toki, from Japan, who we´d met with in El Salvador also.  We spent the rest of the afternoon-evening on the balcony enjoying the sunset views and people watching.